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Noise: "Gamma Rattle" - Rattling clutch when in neutral, changes when
clutch lever is pulled in.
Cause: Some noise is normal. This can be a
couple of things. The thrust washers that are on each side of the needle
bearing that the clutch basket rides on can become worn, letting the entire
clutch basket/primary driven gear move laterally on the countershaft. The
needle bearing that the clutch/primary driven gear ride on may be worn. The
inner clutch basket may be worn where it rides on the splines ofthe
countershaft. The nut holding the inner basket can then begin to back off
allowingmore movement and wear. What makes the sound become less when the
clutch lever is pulled is that pressure is applied from the outer clutch plate
is to the entire clutch basket, thus "pulling" out any "loose" movement.
Hence the rattle goes away
.=
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From 1990 Service Manual:
Factory installed Gearbox Updates: 3/4th Drive Gear & 5th Drive gear -
effective on and after engine # 102121
2nd Driven Gear & 6th Driven Gear - effective on and after engine # 106338
Ref # Part # Description Qty 1 24121-20A01 Counter Shaft (NT:11) 1 2 24221-20A01 Gear, 2nd drive (NT:16) 1 3 24231-21A00 Gear, 3/4th drive (NT:21/23)* 1 4 24251-21A00 Gear, 5th drive (NT:22)* 1 = 5 09301-22002 Bush 1 6 24261-20A02 Gear, 6th drive (NT:23) 1 7 09301-22003 Bush 1 8 09380-22009 Circlip 1 9 08331-11229 Circlip 2 10 24741-20A00 Retainer 2 11 02122-06167 Screw 2 12 09267-25002 Countershaft Bearing, RH 1 13 08110-62030 Countershaft Bearing, LH 1 14 24131-20A00 Driveshaft 1 15 24310-20A02 Gear, 1st driven (NT:29) 1 16 24320-21A10 Gear, 2nd driven (NT:28)* 1 17 24331-21A10 Gear, 3rd driven (NT:29)* 1 *** 24332-21A10 Bushing for Gear, 3rd driven* 1 18 24341-21A10 Gear, 4th driven (NT:27)* 1 *** 24342-21A10 Bushing for Gear, 4th driven* 1 19 24351-21A10 Gear, 5th driven (NT:23)* 1 20 24361-21A11 Gear, 6th driven (NT:22)* 1 21 08211-20321 Thrust Washer 1 22 09167-25013 Lock Washer 1 23 09169-25001 Washer 1 24 09380-25003 Circlip 3 25 09167-25023 Lock Washer* 3 26 09262-20078 Driveshaft Bearing, RH 1 27 09262-25073 Driveshaft Bearing, LH 1 28 09283-32003 Oil Seal (32x42x6) 1 29 27510-20A0 Sprocket, Engine (NT:16) 1 30 09159-20001 Nut 1 31 09167-25019 Lock Washer 1 32 09180-25076 Spacer (25x32x16.4) 1 33 09280-25001 O-ring (D:1, ID:24.5) 1 =0D Items that may require replacing when servicing the transmission: Parts Book - Figure 16 Ref # Part # Description Qty 1 25211-20A02 Fork, No. 1 1 2 25221-20A02 Fork, No. 2 1 3 25231-20A02 Fork, No. 3 1 4 25411-20A02 Shaft, Fork No.1* 1 Other parts needed for Transmission Servicing: Parts Book - Figure 3 18 11332-20A00 Retainer, T/M cover No. 1 4 19 11332-20A10 Retainer, T/M cover No. 2 3 Parts Book - Figure 4 2 11482-20A01 Gasket, Clutch Cover 1=------------------------------------------------------------------------
>It turns ot there was a tranny ring clip installed backwards, at >the factory. Those things are made by stamping them out of >Roserunner Yes, that is a point worth noting. The Japanese are not immortal when it comes to motors. I [Bob T]'ve done a couple of tranny updates and noticed a few glitches myself. One of the new reinforced sixth gears I bought wouldn't 'nest' properly inside the adjacent gear. Its teeth hung up on the inside of the wider gear (2nd) before the dogs engaged the slots smoothly. Suzuki Canada said that it was a millimeter wider than the other gears in it's stock and sent me a replacement. On a less important note, if you measure the spacers and clips that you get, they will range in widths quite noticeably using a dial vernier gauge. For one gear, I couldn't even get the new supplied spacer to fit between it and a circlip. I had to measue a bunch of older and newer clips and spacers and find a combination that just fit. I recommend that you take this approach as you got through each gear/spacer/clip sequence to balance out the tolerances, when you do a rebuild or update. For those who don't know, there were seven gears that were updated through the years of gamma production, and then some post production. 2nd and 6th are the most important to pay attention to.----------------------------------------------------------------
Update description
If you've got an early bike (built in '85 or so, you probably don't have any updated gears - but you'll be able to tell when you take it apart) Updated 2nd and 6th driven gears have deep (visible) undercuts and must be installed as a set (the dogs on 6th have also been reinforced at the base). New 3rd and 4th driven gears have been hollowed out and new hardened inserts (bushings) now ride between them and the shaft - they also must be installed together because of new undercuts. A new 5th drive gear is deeply undercut and must be installed with the new undercut 3rd/4th drive gear set. Rob K kept track of what engines numbers have what, and I think it goes like this: Engines after 102120 (mine was pre) got the upgraded 3/4 drive and 5th drive gears. Engines after 106338 got the 2nd and 6th driven, and after an unknown later date (post-production I think), 3rd and 4th driven gears have a different construction completely. There is a new inner ring that is anchored in the shaft grooves and the surrounding 'gear' rotates with respect to the inner part. This was done to alleviate the amount of wear that was showing up here. And of course, if any of your other gears (non-updated) have worn-looking dog or slot areas, best to replace them too). That's it. Lottsa gears (seven I think) and lottsa money. You can do it yourself if you take very careful note of dissassembly and just duplicate in reverse order. The cassette-style tranny is wonderful - take off one cover and there it is. Of course, use the large service manual for the bike and familiarize yourself with the drive and driven gear set-ups. It is do-able, if you are not mechanically challenged, and you'll need some extras like a clutch remover (need an old plate), a 27mm socket, and a good vernier caliper to check spacer thicknesses.
RG500 Index